The Fauxlex Max is an evolution of the original, “FauxLexa,” which came out in 2017, and the five generations of the “Fauxlex” that came out after, with each model improved by customer feedback.

This version of the Fauxlex is by far the best.

The Fauxlex Max alone weighs in at approximately 8.5 lbs at its dry weight with no added weights or camera equipment. This allows for the option of using it in hand-held mode. It ships to you with added weights, taking it to approximately 17.5 lbs.

We found that most Steadicam/stabilizer operators use a mirrorless camera for practice; (Sony, Fuji, Canon, etc. but any small image maker will work) and by adding the camera, an HDMI-SDI converter (to the inside), and a battery on the back, most people add between 4.5 to 6 lbs of equipment on board which puts the Fauxlex Max practice weight to 24.5 - 26.5 lbs.

The weights bolt inside the unit, allowing them to stack and be adjusted for more or fewer weights to reach the desired payload weight to match the load for your next job, for practice.

The Fauxlex Max is engineered and designed to work with the Wave and the Trinity. Operators who want to practice with either a Wave or a Trinity will need to purchase an additional riser for 75.00.

Top handles are available to purchase for operators who plan to use these for hand-held use with a monitor on top or a Zacuto-style EVF. (This is how I use mine.) This allows small cameras, like a Sony FX3 or FX30 (or any small camera), to feel like a big camera on your shoulder. No more small camera vibrations when hand-held when you are tasked to go shoot a splinter unit with a tiny camera (for example).

It was requested a few models back to make it all cheese-plated. I decided to make the holes pre-drilled to easily tap any of the holes to 3/8-16 or 1/4-20. The holes alternate between a 5/16th through holes for the 3/8-16 tap and #7 for the 1/4-20 holes. So you can buy a hand tap from any hardware store and tap any of these holes where you want threads. I have already taken the liberty to tap a few holes on top for 3/8-16 and 1/4-20.

Most of us know how to tap holes and carry hand taps in our kits. (I know I do.) For those of you who do not know how to hand tap in mild steel, there are lots of videos on YouTube to help you. Trust me, it is rather simple. Here is a link that explains it well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwKloqgkgyo

Additional weights can be purchased if you want to add more weight; just let me know how much weight you need, and I will ship them to you.

This final version, Fauxlex Max, can move your camera fore and aft on the nose mount, and slide your battery rack in the rear fore and aft. This allows you to practice with the inertia for the build you are about to shoot with on your next job. For example, if you are going into a show with a big zoom lens, you can move your camera to the very front of the nose and take the battery rack and fully extend it. This will offer you massive inertia when panning. Likewise, if you are going into a small, compact Arri Mini or Red camera job with lightweight primes, you can squish it all together, tighten it all up, and practice with minimal inertia.

SIDE NOTE: The battery rack can be hard to move even when loose and may require a bump (FROM THE INSIDE TO THE REAR) with a rubber mallet or wooden board to get it to fully release from the closed position to extend out. This is by design to make sure that nothing slips when you are practicing.

Please give us customer feedback, thats what makes our products better — we listen. Thank you for your purchase!